Hijikata Toshizo vs Squids: The Popularity War

Before our visit to the Morning Market on May 17th, we prepared ourselves to collect information on whether the market was primarily for locals or tourists. We noticed that there were a lot of souvenirs available for purchase, and a good portion of the vendors were able to speak in languages other than just Japanese, particularly English and Chinese. We also noticed that there were Japanese students dressed in their uniforms, and they participated in a squid fishing attraction which seemed to be catered towards tourists. We found this interesting as it indicates that the locals also participate in touristy attractions, but of course we consider the possibility that they were visiting from another part of Japan. As members in our group also participated in that squid fishing, we could observe that they provided pictures that described how to properly complete the activity which indicates that they prepare for the possibility that they cannot always communicate with visitors in Japanese. We also noticed a giant sign on the roof that said “Welcome to Hakodate” with a map of major attractions, as well as a TV that used English and showed suggested shops. However, we did not notice many tourist groups, but did notice a plethora of different visitors, including Chinese, Thai, and Japanese people. We were able to try Ikasumi (squid ink) ice cream. We also visited an on-site restaurant and tried various sashimi or cooked fish rice bowls; there were a lot of restaurants all in a row that had model depictions of their menu available outside and they all offered similar food.

We also visited a bakery and were surprised to find a squid ink cream puff available which shows the prevalence of squid as a cultural commodity.

We were very interested in how the squid operates a symbol of Hakodate. While visiting Mirei University, we saw a giant robotic squid displayed in a major hallway. When we asked why a squid was chosen, Kodama-sensei responded “because it’s Hakodate!” This shows how the squid (and perhaps seafood in general) goes beyond merely an economic and cultural aspect, but it is part of Hakodate’s identity and what they choose to use to represent themselves.

We made three separate visits to Goryokaku Tower and Park. We noticed while looking at the exhibits in the Tower and the Magistrates Office that the events were presented without bias. We have learned that, historically speaking, Japan has a culture of shame, which makes it especially interesting that the exhibits didn’t seem to portray either side negatively and presented all events fairly and equally. We noticed that while the sites in Goryokaku Park were not necessarily rebuilt, they were still acknowledged. For example, there was a blank lot that had a sign identifying it as previously containing a horse stable. We also visited the park with Misato who told us that she celebrated Hanami at the park. We also observed someone sleeping there, as well as many bikers and runners. It seemed to us that the park was often utilized for recreational use.

Hijikata Toshizo was a founding member of the Shinsengumi who served under the Tokugawa Shogunate, and he was killed in battle while resisting the Meiji Restoration. As previously noted in a progress report blog post, we spoke to several young Japanese people who knew Hijikata Toshizo by name but did not know much else about him other than the fact that he was a samurai. However, we did still notice the prevalence of his image on souvenirs around Hakodate, usually in cartoon form. Goryokaku Tower even has a giant cartoon standee of him in the gift shop that we saw many uniform-clad students take photos of. We decided to look at various pop culture representations of him as he has been included as a character in many movies and animes. What we found very interesting was how often he was presented as a love interest. He is even a love interest in a couple of otome games. In the most popular one, Hakuoki, the plot also includes a fantastical element of vampires, and another movie presents a homoerotic love story version of the Boshin War. What we have noticed is that Hijikata Toshizo, while he is a real historical figure, is often treated as fictional.


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